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Fall foliage near a building.
Foliage outside the Idyllwild Area Historical Society.
(Julie Wolfson)

20 things to do in Idyllwild, an eclectic mountaintop town that still feels like a secret

About 2½ hours east of Los Angeles, perched 5,400 feet up in the San Jacinto Mountains amid a forest of pine and cedar trees, there’s a tiny town called Idyllwild. You may know it for its tight-knit community and invigorating mountain air. (“If Colorado and Southern California had a baby, it would be Idyllwild,” says Erin Ochs Klair, owner of the community’s beloved Café Aroma.) Or maybe you know it as home to the Idyllwild Arts Academy, a premier boarding school that holds public events such as the Jazz in the Pines festival and art shows at the Parks Exhibition Center. Or perhaps you’ve heard of the quirky charm — the elected mayor is a golden retriever named Max (the deputy mayors, also dogs, are Meadow, Mitzi and Mikey).

This idyllic spot has beckoned people for thousands of years. During summer, the Cahuilla people would hike up to the area to escape the heat and gather and grind acorns in bowl-shaped carvings called bedrock mortars. These can still be found around Idyllwild, including in the area known as the Meadow on the Idyllwild Arts Academy campus.

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In the 1860s, ranchers began to drive cattle and sheep up the mountain to graze. Construction of the Southern Pacific Railroad brought the first logging crews though the San Gorgonio Pass, sourcing wood for locomotive fuel and railroad ties. By the 1870s, campers and vacationers had also begun to follow the steep road up the mountain, seeking the cool breezes among the trees.

In 1897, President Grover Cleveland created the San Jacinto Forest Reserve, the 740,000 acres surrounding Idyllwild. This eventually became part of the San Bernardino National Forest, a more than 820,000-acre area that now encompasses seven wilderness areas, including Barton Flats, Big Bear Lake, Lytle Creek, Lake Arrowhead and the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument.

With the precarious mountain routes and creation of the forest reserve, logging was no longer a viable business for the area. Lumberman George Hannahs opened the first hotel in the valley — a tent resort called Camp Idylwilde, from which the area officially got its name in 1901. More lodging was built, as well as a sanitarium for tuberculosis patients that quickly transformed into a hotel and later became the Idyllwild Inn, a favorite vacation spot that still exists today.

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As the population in grew, arts and entertainment became part of the fabric of Idyllwild. Clark Gable spent time here at his High Castle lodge (maybe with Queen, his beloved Irish setter dog). Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz sought the peacefulness of the rustic setting. Cecil B. DeMille filmed “The Girl of the Golden West” here in 1915. And Elvis Presley played a boxer in the 1962 musical “Kid Galahad,” a film celebrated with memorabilia at the Idyllwild Area Historical Society and at the Hidden Lodge, a dog-friendly rental that sleeps 12.

The gateway to Mt. San Jacinto State Park and the San Jacinto Wilderness area, the community — population 2,963 — provides access to miles of hiking trails, some of which intersect with the Pacific Crest Trail. Each year, Idyllwild is a favorite rest stop among trail through-hikers in late spring.

Here, dogs are not only beloved pets but also elected city officials. As an unincorporated town, Idyllwild — in combination with the communities of Pine Grove and Fern Valley — has no local government. In 2012, an election was held as a fundraiser for the Idyllwild Animal Rescue Friends in which local residents could nominate their cats and dogs as mayor. Max the golden retriever, owned by residents Phyllis Mueller and Glenn Warren, became the first mayor. He was so popular that in 2014, Idyllwild decided to continue Mayor Max’s office in perpetuity.

When the first Max died at age 12 in 2013, Mueller and Warren, who run a marketing firm, continued the fluffy tradition with Max II. He donned the official mayoral stars-and-stripes necktie to serve his post until his death this summer. This month, new puppy Max III, along with his adorable sister Meadow, made their official debut. The popularity of these golden-haired cuties, whom locals and visitors flock to see at their weekly local appearances, reflects the exuberant dog-friendliness of the community. (The Brew Pub, a popular meeting spot, welcomes dogs on its deck and offers a dog menu of beef patties and chopped chicken.)

You’ll know you’ve arrived in Idyllwild when you see “Harmony,” a cedar tree monument depicting a bear surrounded by other mountain creatures, with details reflecting the hiking trails and arts community. It was carved with a chain saw by artist David Roy, who was living in Idyllwild at the time. Take a deep breath of mountain air, check into your inn or cabin rental and settle in.

Idyllwild is a destination for hikers, rock climbers, music aficionados, art enthusiasts, nature lovers, bird watchers and anyone in search of a quiet, cozy place to unwind. Here’s what to do, see and eat on a weekend visit.

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The exterior of the Fireside Inn in Idyllwild.
(Fiona Chandra)

The Fireside Inn

Riverside Lodging
The historic Fireside Inn is a collection of cabins and small cottages with adjoining rooms that was built in the 1930s. Since new owners took charge in 2019, it’s been undergoing some updates. For those who want to experience the rustic atmosphere of Idyllwild but still desire their creature comforts, Fireside Inn meets them halfway with down pillows and comforters and Malin + Goetz soaps in wood-paneled rooms complete with fireplaces. Fireside Inn is also pet-friendly, and most rooms are equipped with full kitchens. The inn also has a garden with grills available for guest use. Rates start at $109 a night.
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The exterior of the Idyllwild Inn in Idyllwild.
(Julie Wolfson)

Idyllwild Inn

Riverside Lodging
In 1899, Dr. Walter Lindley and his partners purchased more than 1,600 acres of land along Strawberry Creek to build a hotel and a sanitorium for tuberculosis patients, with treatment meant to be funded using revenue from the hotel portion of the business. Over the next five years, as the area became a popular destination, the sanitorium was shut down and the property was devoted fully to the hotel, later renamed the Idyllwild Inn.

Currently, the rustic alpine lodging located next to the Idyllwild monument offers eight rooms and two suites that are not pet friendly, and 19 pet-friendly cabins, some built in 1910, and others added from the ’90s up to today. Rates range from $139 for a room to $259 for a three-bedroom cabin. The inn’s owners also operate four vacation homes around town, including a three-bedroom log cabin built in the early 1900s. Be sure to ask about placing an order from Leisa Wood, who works at the inn’s front desk and bakes fruit pies, including her favorite mixed-berries flavor, the Razzle Dazzle, for her company Tahquitz Pies.
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The interior of a cabin in Idyllwild.
(Fiona Chandra)

Experience Idyllwild cabin rentals

Lodging
Renting a cute mountain cabin here is a great option, especially when traveling with family or a group of friends. There are hundreds of vacation rentals to choose from, including those available through Experience Idyllwild, which operates seven around town — from a cozy historic cottage to several A-frame cabins just secluded enough to offer a sense of serenity. Many of the cabins come with hot tubs and outdoor grills, like the Idyllcove A-frame cabin, which has a fenced-in yard for dogs to run around in. Make use of your rental’s well-stocked kitchen by grabbing supplies from one of the in-town grocery stores for a relaxing night in. Rates start at $199 a night.
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The interior of a bookstore.
(Fiona Chandra)

Bookmarket

Riverside Bookstore
Bookmarket opened earlier this year in the secluded Oakwood Village shopping center across from Black Mountain Coffee Roasting. Riley Holgate curates his cozy shop’s collection of used and vintage books with a focus on eye-catching cover design, writers in the ’60s and ’70s, oddities, history, art, rare zines and quirky cookbooks. The shelves are filled with paper goods and writing tools, from Penco Notebooks and Tombow pencils to Poketo gel pens and letterpress greeting cards. Intoxicating scents emanate from geometric Pearl Goes West candles that are handmade nearby, and one wall features paintings by local artists. An adjoining door opens into Jute Mercantile, which offers a minimalist selection of modern household and gardening items. Be sure to also visit their friends at nearby Speakeasy Books to browse its collection of new books and gifts, and meet the shop’s fluffy, book-loving pup, Dexter.
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A sign at Idyllwild Gardens.
(Fiona Chandra)

Idyllwild Gardens Nursery

Riverside Nursery / Garden Center
Don’t miss a stroll through the welcoming and charming Idyllwild Gardens. This family-owned nursery isn’t just a delight to walk through while digesting that hearty rösti from Tommy’s Kitchen; it’s also a good place to shop for gifts. Beyond the plants, pots and garden decor, there are a couple of small gift shops within the nursery — including one in an adorably repurposed bus — featuring clothing, soaps, kitchenware and more, with many items made locally or in neighboring communities. And for for those who wish to rest and take in the scents of nature around you, sitting nooks and hammocks await.
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El Buen Cacao exterior in Idyllwild.
(Fiona Chandra)

El Buen Cacao

Riverside Chocolatier
Husband-and-wife team Erik Landis and Jessica Ramirez met while working as contract archaeologists and quickly fell in love — not just with each other, but also with the history of chocolate. After initially experimenting in their kitchen in Palm Desert, they decided in 2015 to open a weekend-only chocolate shop in Idyllwild, where Landis’ father runs the Artspresso Art Gallery. Soon afterward, the couple decided to move up to the mountain and run the shop seven days a week.

El Buen Cacao’s offers dark chocolate bars, made only with cacao and sugar, along with flavored chocolate bars and truffles. The couple source ethical and organic chocolate, in many cases directly from fair labor cacao farms around the world. The single-origin chocolate bars and various truffles make for great souvenirs. While you’re there, grab a cup of hot sipping chocolate (or a chocolate shake when the weather is warm).
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The exterior of Mountain Paws pet boutique and bakery in Idyllwild.
(Julie Wolfson)

Mountain Paws pet boutique

Riverside Pet Store
As befitting a community where dogs are unconditionally welcomed and loved, Idyllwild has an idyllic pet shop too. Walking into this rustic shingled haven, shoppers may be lucky enough to be greeted by owner Cindy Ifould Dahlstrom’s tiny pup Coco, a rescue Yorkie. Inside, the walls are lined with adorable toys, cozy beds and such supplies as shampoo, collars and leashes. Mountain Paws actively works with the Animal Rescue Friends of Idyllwild and also runs Coco’s Resale, a thrift shop that helps raise money for animal causes.
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Bottles of wine line shelves in Idyllwild.
(Julie Wolfson)

Wine Finch

Riverside Wine Bar
Upstairs in the Fort shopping center in the center of Idyllwild, you’ll find the Wine Finch, a wine bar that opened in May 2021. Here, owners Heather and David Landeros offer something a little different: a daily $5 “mystery taste,” a half-pour from their collection of mostly natural low-intervention wines by small wineries from around the globe. (The day we visited, they were pouring a juicy, sparkling gem from Austria: Meinklang’s Prosa 2021.) Wine Finch has shelves filled with vintages from Spain, Morocco and Germany alongside California offerings that include Cabernet Franc from Lo-Fi in the Santa Ynez valley and a Pinot Noir from the Bold Wine Co. in Monterey County. They also pour bubbly specials for their Sunday Funday and host a popular trivia night on Thursdays.
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Brewpub interior in Idyllwild.
(Julie Wolfson)

Idyllwild Brewpub

Riverside Brewery
Head down a flight of stairs in the Strawberry Creek Shopping Plaza to visit Idyllwild Brewpub. Don’t worry — it’s popular not just because it’s the town’s only brewery but also because the 21 rotating beers on tap, including great Belgian ales, Pilsener and even a couple of barrel-aged options, are really delicious. Brewmaster Donald Put used to work at the Idyllwild Arts Academy but after becoming a local legend for his home brews, he was recruited here. There’s also a small but solid menu of craft cocktails and satisfying pub food, which visitors and locals enjoy on the large patio or while catching sports games on the TVs inside.
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Ferro patio with pooch in Idyllwild.
(Fiona Chandra)

Ferro

Riverside Restaurant
Frank and Lori Ferro have been involved in the Idyllwild culinary community for more than two decades, having established such institutions as Cafe Aroma and Idyllwild Brewpub. Since passing those two gems onto new hands, they’ve focused their attention on their latest venture, Ferro. Frank wanted to bring a piece of Italy to Idyllwild, making bread and pastas in-house and importing ingredients from flour to cheese directly from Italy. Ferro also offers an amari flight and the only nonalcoholic cocktail program in town. Their linguine alla Bolognese, made with beef, pork, soffrito, red wine, marinara and cream, is the perfect bowl to dig into when the air starts to cool. Ferro’s Tuesday jazz nights — featuring the local trio of Marshall Hawkins, Paul Carman and Barnaby Finch — are popular with locals.
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A cocktail in Idyllwild.
(Fiona Chandra)

Cafe Aroma

Riverside Restaurant
Over the years, this rustic setting nestled in the trees a few blocks from the historical society, has been home to countless meals, plays, poetry readings, art shows, events and music performances. After moving their family to Idyllwild from Palm Desert for the mountain air and cooler climate, Erica Ochs Klair and Stewart Klair bought Café Aroma in summer 2021. Now, this lively restaurant is home to an eclectic selection of Italian dishes, global flavors and cocktails. Also on the menu are sections dedicated to humorous riddles, ideas for festive toasts and conversation starters such as questions about your favorite forest or species of tree.

At the bar, order a classic cocktail or the bartender’s daily creation (recently, a creative riff on a Vieux Carré). Stewart Klair helms the kitchen, serving beloved menu items such as pastas with a few new favorites along the way (one of the primary goals is to offer more plant-based options, like a vegan mac and cheese with kimchi). Reservations are highly recommended. The tradition of being a welcoming community gathering place continues with live music Thursday and Sunday nights.
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Breakfast dishes as Mama's Eggs House in Idyllwild.
(Fiona Chandra)

Mama’s Egg House

Riverside Restaurant
Weekend brunch may be the most happening time of week in this mountain town, and you’ll find a good part of the community at Mama’s Egg House. Opening just over two years ago, the restaurant has already become a go-to breakfast destination, with hearty egg dishes and a spacious, dog-friendly deck. Classic pancakes and eggs aside, there are plenty of Mexican influences on the menu, from chilaquiles to a chile relleno omelet. Mama’s Egg House took over the space that used to house Idyllwild’s only vegan restaurant, but rest assured: There’s a vegan section as well as fresh-pressed juices and smoothies.
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The interior of Black Mountain Coffee in Idyllwild.
(Fiona Chandra)

Black Mountain Coffee Roasting

Riverside Coffeehouse
Inside a wood-shingled building at the Oakwood Village shops, open the green door to enter the cozy tasting room for Black Mountain Coffee Roasters. This is the place to experience the beauty of freshly brewed pour-over coffees. Tastings start at $10 to try three coffees roasted in-house on Black Mountain’s US Roaster Corp. roaster. Current offerings include coffees from Ethiopia, Vietnam and Burundi. Single pour-overs and cold brew are also on the menu. Owners Chris and Katie Bayer love to explore the world of coffee in a variety of ways: Currently, they’re experimenting with aging beans in a bourbon barrel on the counter. Locals stop by for a cup and to pick up their coffee club orders, which provide them with two new bags of coffee each month. (While we were there, a man walked in with his dog to place an order and announced, “I came in here last year and had the best coffee of my life.”)
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Trees and mountains.
(Julie Wolfson)

Vertical Adventures Rock Climbing School

Riverside Experience
Here’s a fun fact: The modern system for rating rock climbs, the Yosemite Decimal System, was originally developed in Idyllwild at Tahquitz Rocks. It was here in the ’70s that Yvon Chouinard, an environmentalist and founder of Patagonia clothing, pioneered the ethos of clean climbing and respecting natural surroundings as he trained for Yosemite climbs. If rock climbing is part of your itinerary, Vertical Adventures offers guided tours for climbers at all levels and lessons for beginners from their team of experienced guides.

Bob Gaines, who founded the company in 1983, has written climbing guidebooks for the Tahquitz Rocks and Suicide Rocks. He coordinates memorable expeditions, with plenty of stories about the legacy of this historic site in the world of rock climbing. For anyone who would rather be a spectator, Gaines tells us that Devil’s Slide Trail (located on this map) provides both a scenic hike and some of the best views of rock climbers on Tahquitz Peak.
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A photograph of the Nature Center sign in Idyllwild.
(Fiona Chandra)

Idyllwild Nature Center

Riverside Nature center
A great stop when traveling with little ones, Idyllwild Nature Center, on the site of an ancient Cahuilla village, offers a small museum with exhibits on the tribe and the area’s native flora and fauna. There are multiple trails accessible from the center, including short, flat routes great for younger children or those looking for a quick walk, as well as a longer perimeter trail that passes through manzanita groves and offers beautiful views. A wide variety of birds reside or come through the San Jacinto Mountain area every year, and the feeders installed around the nature center make this one of the best spots for birding as well. Admission to Idyllwild Nature Center is $4 for adults, $3 for children. The Nature Center is also one of the few areas in town designated as a play area after a heavy snowfall. Snow play is $10 for adults, $5 for children.
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A sign for Ernie Maxwell Trail in Idyllwild.
(Fiona Chandra)

Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail

Riverside Trail
The founder of the Idyllwild Town Crier, Ernie Maxwell, dreamed up the idea of building this trail, which is one of the easiest day hikes in town. The 4.6-mile out-and-back trail starts at Humber Park and descends 700 feet through the trees, crossing several streams and offering views of both Lily Rock and Suicide Rock. Take note of the large boulder along the trail: The Cahuilla people believed the boulders were the result of the evil spirit Tahquitz stomping around the canyons. The hike ends on Tahquitz View Drive. Adventure Pass ($5 per day or $30 annually) or a National Park Pass ($80 annually) is required to park at Humber Park.
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A photograph for the Idyllwild arts concert hall.
(Julie Wolfson)

Idyllwild Arts Academy

Riverside School
Just a few miles from the center of town, Idyllwild Arts Academy, with an enrollment of 300 high school-age students, is one of the premier private boarding schools in the country devoted to the arts. Locals and visitors are invited to the 205-acre campus for numerous visual and performing arts events throughout the year. Gallery shows in the Parks Exhibition Center feature visiting shows and student art works. Concerts in the William M. Lowman Concert Hall often include presentations by visiting professional musicians. Many site-specific murals can be found throughout the beautiful forested school, including the current public art installation “Paste, Present, Future,” featuring works by Cheyenne Randall (Cheyenne River Sioux), curated by Erin Joyce. Ground will be broken soon on the Native American Arts Center, which will offer a dedicated place on campus to honor and learn about the Cahuilla people and celebrate Native American culture through the teaching of indigenous arts. Adult programs include a Cahuilla basketry workshop at the arts center as part of the Native American Arts Workshops & Festival Week. There are also summer programs for kids and teens, and the campus is the site for the popular music festival Jazz in the Pines in July.
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A photograph of the interior of the Idyllwild Historical Society in Idyllwild.
(Fiona Chandra)

Idyllwild Area Historical Society

Riverside Museum
For those who want to learn more about the area’s past, be sure to visit the Idyllwild Area Historical Society museum. The museum, handily located a stones throw from the center of town, is housed in a cabin built in the 1930s and rotates its displays, so there’s always something new to learn. Among the exhibits you may find are those dedicated to artifacts of the Cahuilla tribe; the history of ranchers and the logging industry; rock climbing and the famous movies filmed in Idyllwild (more than 100 have been shot in the town and surrounding area). For printouts for self-guided tours, including an Elvis tour, ask the museum attendant. Admission is free.
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A man stands with wooden carvings.
(Julie Wolfson)

Idyllwild Art in the Park

Riverside Event
The arts also take center stage here, with numerous events planned throughout the year, including Art in the Park over 10 weekends from March through October. Located in Idyllwild Park on Circle Drive, the event showcases original artwork, ceramics, jewelry, photography, fabric, wood and glass. Look for paintings by Aubrie Rudder, jewelry from Boulder Creek, photographs by Anthony Jones and Carlos Vargas and custom leather by Lisa Archer. Wood carvings, an art form that can be seen throughout town in animal sculptures and rustic signs, will also be on display. Meet Cory Lavy, who was born and raised in Idyllwild and previously worked in the Forest Service and as a paramedic before turning to chain-saw art. Lavy, a.k.a. BeardABear, is known for his adorable six-inch chain saw-carved bears as well as commissions for larger animal sculptures. He sells his creations at Art in the Park and also from the back of his truck next to the monument in the fall and winter. The event also features live music from Terry Jo Stratton and Jeff Hixon, a local duo known as TimbreWoods, who play Americana, roots, blues, originals and covers.
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Two dogs hang out of a car window.
(Fiona Chandra)

Meet Mayor Max at Wooley’s

Riverside Event
On Thursdays and Fridays at 2 p.m. and weekends at 4 p.m., you can find Mayor Max and his Cabinet of golden retrievers in front of the massive hat on the façade of Wooley’s, a family-owned apparel store in the heart of Idyllwild. Locals and visitors alike head here to soak in the sunny personalities (and golden fur) of the town’s elected officials. The pups’ “chief of staff,” Phyllis Mueller, who chauffeurs the dogs in a white Dodge Durango, says that some days she feels like she is driving around the Beatles.

Hit up Amelia’s Donuts and More for official Mayor Max merch and, of course, donuts, including the Glazed Amazing, a raised yeast creation dipped in butter glaze. In mid-December, new puppy Mayor Max III makes his debut along with his sister (and Deputy Mayor) Meadow. Max and his deputies will star in the town’s yearly calendar and make mayoral appearances for fundraisers and events.
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